On February 12th, 1947, the fashion world was irrevocably altered. In the salons of 30 Avenue Montaigne, Christian Dior unveiled his first collection, a revolutionary statement that would forever be known as "The New Look." This wasn't merely a collection of clothes; it was a cultural phenomenon, a symbol of postwar optimism and a bold rejection of the wartime austerity that had defined women's fashion for years. This article will delve into the true story behind The New Look, exploring its designs, its impact, the ensuing controversy, and its lasting legacy on fashion.
The New Look: True Story
The years leading up to 1947 had been marked by World War II's harsh realities. Women's fashion reflected this, characterized by utilitarian, practical clothing – often made from limited materials – that prioritized functionality over femininity. Shoulder pads were minimal, skirts were narrow and short, and the overall silhouette was straight and boxy. This "practical" style, born out of necessity, had become somewhat drab and lacked the elegance and glamour that Dior, a visionary with a keen sense of beauty and a deep understanding of haute couture, yearned to restore.
Dior, having honed his skills as a designer for Robert Piguet and Lucien Lelong, possessed a profound understanding of tailoring and a romantic vision of femininity. He envisioned a style that would celebrate the female form, a striking contrast to the wartime restrictions. He meticulously planned his debut collection, aiming for a dramatic and unforgettable impact. His goal wasn't simply to create beautiful clothes; he aimed to redefine the very essence of feminine elegance.
The collection, initially named "Corolle" and "En 8," featured a revolutionary silhouette. The iconic "New Look" was defined by its full, cinched waist, a rounded, full skirt extending to mid-calf or slightly below, and a softly padded, rounded shoulder. This was a stark departure from the prevailing straight lines, creating a dramatically feminine and hourglass-shaped figure. The fabrics were luxurious – silks, satins, velvets – and the details were exquisite, showcasing Dior's mastery of tailoring and his meticulous attention to craftsmanship. The collection included a range of daywear and eveningwear, each piece meticulously designed to highlight the new silhouette.
The presentation itself was a carefully orchestrated event. The models, meticulously chosen, showcased the collection with grace and poise. Among the attendees was Carmel Snow, the influential editor-in-chief of *Harper's Bazaar*. Upon seeing the collection, Snow famously declared, "It's such a new look!" This spontaneous remark, capturing the essence of the collection's transformative power, cemented the name "The New Look" in fashion history.
Christian Dior 1947 Collection Designs:
The 1947 collection wasn't just about a single silhouette. Dior offered a diverse range of styles, all united by their emphasis on femininity and elegance. Key elements included:
* The Bar Jacket: A fitted jacket with a nipped-in waist, padded shoulders, and a rounded peplum, this became a signature piece of the New Look and remains a timeless classic. It provided structure and shape, complementing the full skirt perfectly.
* The Full Skirt: The most iconic element, the full skirt created a dramatic contrast to the wartime silhouette. The volume was achieved through skillful cutting and meticulous construction, often incorporating multiple layers of fabric to create the desired shape.
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